Does Every Skin Type Need Hyaluronic Acid? Professor Caitriona Ryan Explains
The ID Ingredients Edit
Hyaluronic acid is on the label of almost every serum and moisturiser, yet it is still widely misunderstood. In this edition of The ID Ingredients Edit, Professor Caitriona Ryan, Consultant Dermatologist and Co-Founder of the Institute of Dermatologists, explains what it does, who it suits, and how to get the most from it.
Yes. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring sugar found throughout the dermis that can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Every skin type needs hydration, including oily skin, because oil and water are not the same thing. For best results, apply it to slightly damp skin, then lock it in with a barrier moisturiser.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid is one of the most important molecules for skin hydration, and your skin already contains it in vast quantities. It is a sugar found naturally throughout the dermis, the deeper layer of the skin.
What makes it remarkable is how much water it can hold: up to 1,000 times its own weight. That water supports both hydration and volume, which is what gives healthy skin its plump, supple look.
"One of the most important molecules for skin hydration is one that's already found in your skin in vast quantities, and that's hyaluronic acid."
Professor Caitriona Ryan, Institute of Dermatologists
Does Oily Skin Need Hyaluronic Acid?
Yes. One of the most common misconceptions about hyaluronic acid is that it is only for dry skin. Skin that feels oily can still be lacking in hydration, because oil and water do different jobs. That makes hyaluronic acid a useful ingredient for every skin type, not just dry skin.
"It's great for people with dry skin, obviously, but people with oily skin also need to hydrate their skin. Oil is different to water."
Professor Caitriona Ryan, Institute of Dermatologists
How Should You Apply Hyaluronic Acid?
Professor Ryan's top tip is simple: apply hyaluronic acid to slightly damp skin, then lock it in with a barrier moisturiser.
- Cleanse, and leave your skin slightly damp.
- Apply your hyaluronic acid serum.
- Follow with a barrier moisturiser to seal in hydration.
- In the morning, finish with a broad spectrum SPF.
"A skin barrier type moisturiser is absolutely great for hydration, but also for the overall appearance and robustness of your skin."
Professor Caitriona Ryan, Institute of Dermatologists
Which Hyaluronic Acid Products Does Professor Ryan Recommend?
Hyaluronic acid appears in many of the products Professor Ryan uses every day, from her daily SPF to her night time routine. Her personal favourite is Skinbetter Science InterFuse Intensive Treatment LINES.
"I love Skinbetter LINES. It's full of all different types of hyaluronic acid."
Professor Caitriona Ryan, Institute of Dermatologists
- Skinbetter Science InterFuse Intensive Treatment LINES: Professor Ryan's favourite, packed with different types of hyaluronic acid to target the appearance of lines.
- Clinical Skin Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Serum: Long lasting hydration, with peptides for firmer, smoother looking skin.
- MZ Skin Bio-Placenta Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Different weights of hyaluronic acid in one light serum, for an instant boost of hydration.
- Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum: A simple daily hyaluronic acid booster that supports the skin barrier.
- EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex: The ceramide rich barrier moisturiser to lock it all in.
One Thing to Keep in Mind
Hyaluronic acid works best as part of a routine, not on its own. It is a hydrator rather than a complete moisturiser, which is why Professor Ryan always follows it with a barrier moisturiser to lock hydration in.
It is also not a replacement for the two steps she considers non negotiable for skin ageing: a tinted sunblock every morning and a retinoid at night. Think of hyaluronic acid as the ingredient that keeps skin comfortable and hydrated while those do the heavy lifting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is hyaluronic acid suitable for oily skin?
Yes. Oily skin still needs hydration, because oil and water are different things. Hyaluronic acid adds hydration and suits every skin type.
Should I apply hyaluronic acid to wet or dry skin?
Professor Caitriona Ryan recommends applying it to slightly damp skin, then locking it in with a barrier moisturiser.
Can I use hyaluronic acid every day?
Yes. Professor Ryan uses products containing hyaluronic acid every day, in her morning SPF and in her night time routine.
Can I use hyaluronic acid with a retinoid?
Yes. Professor Ryan's own night time retinoid contains hyaluronic acid, and following a retinoid with good hydration is part of her advice for anyone starting one.
Where can I buy dermatologist recommended hyaluronic acid products?
The hyaluronic acid products Professor Ryan recommends are available from the Institute of Dermatologists online store, with delivery across Ireland.
Professor Caitriona Ryan is a Consultant Dermatologist and Co-Founder of the Institute of Dermatologists. The ID Ingredients Edit breaks down one skincare ingredient at a time, with advice from the Institute of Dermatologists' consultant dermatologists.
