Which Skincare Steps Matter Most? Professor Nicola Ralph on SPF and Retinol
Professor Nicola Ralph, Consultant Dermatologist at the Institute of Dermatologists, joined the skin and haircare panel at the Irish Examiner's Feelgood Live event in Cork, speaking to more than 200 women about how to care for skin, scalp and hair. Her advice on what really earns a place in your routine was refreshingly simple.
According to Professor Nicola Ralph, the two skincare steps that matter most are a broad spectrum SPF every morning and a topical retinol at night. Daily sun protection is the foundation, and without it, the rest of a routine does far less for your skin.
What Are the Two Most Important Skincare Steps?
Sunscreen in the morning and retinol in the evening. Professor Ralph put it plainly on the panel:
"SPF in the morning and topical retinol at night will do. If you don't have sunscreen in your daily routine, you're wasting your time." Professor Nicola Ralph, Institute of Dermatologists
It is a useful reset at a time when routines are getting longer and shelves are getting fuller. These two steps do different jobs.
One protects the skin from damage during the day. The other supports renewal overnight. Together they cover the two things that matter most for how skin looks and ages over time.
Why Is SPF the One Step You Can't Skip?
Ultraviolet light is one of the main drivers of visible skin ageing, including fine lines, uneven tone and loss of firmness. It reaches the skin all year round in Ireland, on cloudy days and through windows, not only on sunny holidays.
That is why Professor Ralph's line about "wasting your time" lands so hard. Any product working to improve your skin overnight is undone if the same skin is left unprotected every day.
A broad spectrum SPF of 30 or higher, worn every morning as the last step of your routine, is the single habit that protects everything else you do.
The best sunscreen is one you will happily wear every day. EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 is a lightweight, oil free facial sunscreen made with zinc oxide and niacinamide, and is formulated with sensitive and breakout prone skin in mind. For a little sheer coverage, it also comes in a tinted version.
Why Retinol at Night?
Retinoids are among the most studied topical ingredients for ageing skin. Retinol encourages cell renewal, which over time can help soften the look of fine lines, refine uneven texture and even out skin tone.
It belongs in the evening routine for two reasons. Retinol can break down in sunlight, and it can leave skin more sensitive to the sun.
That is also why the two steps work as a pair. Retinol at night supports renewal, and SPF in the morning protects that skin the following day.
How Should You Start Using Retinol?
Slowly. The most common reason people give up on retinol is irritation in the first few weeks, not because it doesn't suit them.
A sensible way to begin:
- Start two or three nights a week, then build up to every night as your skin adjusts
- Use a small amount on clean, dry skin
- Expect some mild dryness or flaking at first, which usually settles as skin gets used to it
- Follow with your moisturiser to keep skin comfortable
- Never skip your SPF the next morning
The best retinol is the one your skin tolerates well enough to use consistently. A gentler formula used every night will do more than a stronger one you abandon after a fortnight.
That is the thinking behind Clinical Skin Retinol + Peptide Refining Serum. It pairs pure retinol with bakuchiol, a gentler plant based alternative, along with soothing niacinamide and allantoin, so it is designed to be used every night, including by retinol beginners.
A good moisturiser after your retinol helps keep skin comfortable while it adjusts. EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex combines five ceramides with squalane and vitamin E to support the skin barrier and hold in moisture.
It is fragrance free, non comedogenic and gentle enough for sensitive skin, which makes it a natural partner for the dryness that can come with the first weeks of retinol.
Why Shouldn't You Stop at Your Jawline?
Professor Ralph also made a point that many routines miss: the neck and the backs of the hands deserve the same care as the face.
Both areas get just as much sun exposure as the face, often more, yet they are routinely left out. Both tend to show signs of ageing early.
The fix is simple. Take your SPF down over the neck and onto the backs of your hands every morning, and extend your retinol to the neck at night.
When Should You Avoid Retinol or Take Extra Care?
Retinol is not suitable during pregnancy, while breastfeeding or if you are planning a pregnancy. If any of these apply, leave it out of your routine for now.
That doesn't mean pausing your routine altogether. The Skn to Skn range is formulated to be pregnancy safe.
In the evening, Skn to Skn Sleep Cheat Night Cream replenishes the skin overnight with ceramides, omega oils, ectoin and hyaluronic acid, without retinol. In the morning, Skn to Skn Glow & Go Daily Moisturiser with Mineral SPF 30 keeps sun protection in place.
If your skin is very sensitive, or you have a skin condition such as rosacea or eczema, introduce retinol especially slowly and stop if irritation persists.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to wear SPF every day in Ireland?
Yes. UV light reaches the skin all year round, including on cloudy days, so a broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher is worth wearing every morning, whatever the forecast.
How often should a beginner use retinol?
Start two or three nights a week and build up gradually to nightly use as your skin adjusts. Mild dryness or flaking in the first few weeks is common and usually settles.
Can I use retinol in the morning?
Retinol is best used at night. It can break down in sunlight and can make skin more sun sensitive, so pair it with SPF every morning.
Should I put SPF and retinol on my neck and hands?
Yes. Professor Nicola Ralph recommends treating the neck and the backs of the hands with the same care and products as the face, as both areas see a lot of sun and often show early signs of ageing.
Is retinol safe during pregnancy?
No. Retinol is not recommended during pregnancy, while breastfeeding or when planning a pregnancy. A pregnancy safe alternative, such as Skn to Skn Sleep Cheat Night Cream, can take its place in the evening, alongside a daily mineral SPF such as Skn to Skn Glow & Go Daily Moisturiser with Mineral SPF 30.
How Can You Build Your Routine?
- Cleanse, morning and night: start with a gentle cleanser that won't strip the skin, especially while it adjusts to retinol. Choose EltaMD Oil in Gel Cleanser, which lifts away sunscreen and makeup while protecting the skin barrier, or Clinical Skin Gentle Cream Cleanser, a soothing cream cleanser with colloidal oatmeal for sensitive or dry skin.
- Morning: EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46, an oil free, fragrance free facial sunscreen with zinc oxide, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Also available tinted.
- Evening: Clinical Skin Retinol + Peptide Refining Serum, which pairs pure retinol with bakuchiol, a gentler plant based alternative, for a retinol designed to be used every night. Follow with EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex, a ceramide moisturiser that supports the skin barrier while it adjusts.
This article is based on Professor Nicola Ralph's appearance on the skin and haircare panel at Feelgood Live in Cork, as reported by the Irish Examiner.
