AskID: AHA's/BHA's

We asked Prof Niki Ralph:
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‘The skin naturally sheds its dead skin cells cyclically, every 21-28 days, however some of us feel the need to manually scrub at our faces to aid this process. For those of us who are too heavy handed, this may result in redness and irritation, especially in those with fair, sensitive skin.

Certain factors such as the cold weather, indoor heating and stress can stall this cycle therefore regular, daily, mild exfoliation is crucial to increase cellular turnover, especially during the Winter months. I am therefore a fan of daily use of a chemical exfoliant which is suited to your own skin concerns – oily blemish prone skin, mature/dehydrated skin, sensitive skin, skin prone to pigmentation etc.

Historically we all relied on manual dislodging of dirt/build up of dead skin cells by using a weekly physical exfoliant which stripped away the surface cells by rubbing grains/gritty particles on the skin’s surface however for some this did more harm than good.

Chemical exfoliators which contain both AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA’s (beta hydroxy acids) are now arguably some of the safest and gentlest ways to break down the bonds between skin cells which ultimately decongests the skin (stops the formation of comedones/blackheads) and keeps the skin feeling smoother and brighter.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is the closest thing to “magic in a bottle”. It contains all of the ingredients we need to have that dewy skin but also a few extra to help soothe the skin.

AHA’s – work at a more superficial level aiding the shedding of the surface skin cells, whereas BHA’s penetrate more deeply which can also help to improve skin texture over time.

Lotion P50 contains AHA’s lactic and citric acid. The molecules have a high acid to low salt ratio, which means it is both exfoliating but also hydrating.

Cider vinegar contains both citric and malic acids which have purifying and astringent properties.
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It contains BHA, Salicyclic acid which penetrates the pores more deeply which is particularly good for those with acne/oily skin as it also has anti-inflammatory properties. 

Niacinamide helps to reduce pigmentation and has anti-inflammatory properties which is great for those with acne prone skin, but also sensitive skin
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It also contains NMFs (natural moisturising factors) which are ingredients that mimic the substances found in healthy skin (urea/lactate).
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If you are new to acids it is best to introduce them slowly to the skin, therefore dilute the chemical exfoliant by adding it to a dampened cotton pad before applying directly to the skin. After 1-2 weeks you can then put Lotion P50 onto a dry cotton pad and pat it across the skin. It is ideally used twice daily onto dry skin before applying moisturiser/serum etc.
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There are 4 different types of Lotion P50 suitable for variety of skin concerns and skin types, all of which contain the same core ingredients but subtle differences to target specific skin concerns
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P50w – the mildest strength (introductory) for those with sensitive skin.
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P50 PIGM400 - for those prone to pigmentation which helps to prevent it in the first place, but also fade it over time. It also has added mandelic acid and a higher concentration of niacinamide to soothe the skin.
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P50v – vitamin enriched for those with dry skin and mature skin types
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P50 original - the purest and strongest formula – especially good for those with thicker skin
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This cocktail of AHA’s, BHA’s (lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and salicyclic acid) gently renews the skin over a period of “50 days” which essentially is two skin cycles resulting in smoother and more glowing skin.
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It is always advisable to use a broad-spectrum, physical sunscreen each day when using acids in a skin care routine.

For those with thicker skin or looking for immediate results mechanical exfoliation with Dermaplaning can be performed. This may also be combined with a Biologique Recherche facial for the ultimate treatment.
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Dermaplaning involves the use of a sterile surgical blade to gently remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells of the stratum corneum and fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) to produce smoother, brighter skin.
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Dermaplaning immediately rejuvenates the skin leaving it smooth, supple and vibrant. It enhances the penetration of active ingredients of skin care products and creates a smooth canvas for makeup application for a smoother, more radiant look. It is very safe and even suitable for sensitive skin. It is great before a special event!