Retinoids in Dermatology: What They Are and How Do They Work
Retinoids are one of the most researched ingredients in skincare, and one of the most important ingredients we use in dermatology. They can be used to treat acne, pigmentation, fine lines and overall skin texture, which means they are suitable for many different skin types and concerns.
Retinoids are derived from vitamin A. They work by increasing skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. This helps the skin to function more efficiently and improves the overall quality and texture of the skin over time.
When used correctly and consistently, retinoids can make a significant difference to the skin.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are vitamin A–derived ingredients that help the skin renew itself more efficiently. As we age, skin cell turnover slows down and collagen production decreases. This contributes to fine lines, uneven pigmentation, dullness and changes in skin texture.
Retinoids help to counteract these changes by increasing cell turnover and supporting collagen production.
Because of this, retinoids can help improve:
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Fine lines and wrinkles
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Uneven pigmentation
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Acne and breakouts
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Pore size
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Overall skin texture and tone
For this reason, retinoids are often a core part of many dermatology treatment plans.
How Do Retinoids Improve the Skin?
Retinoids work in several different ways.
They increase collagen production, which helps to improve fine lines and skin texture over time.
They increase skin cell turnover, which helps to brighten the skin and improve uneven pigmentation.
They help to prevent pores from becoming blocked, which makes them very useful for acne-prone skin.
They also help to improve overall skin texture and skin quality.
There are very few ingredients that can improve so many different skin concerns at the same time, which is why retinoids are used so widely in dermatology.
It is important to understand that retinoids are not a quick fix. They work gradually over time, and the best results are seen with consistent use.
Dermatologist Insight
One of the most common problems we see is that people start a retinoid that is too strong for them, or they use it too often at the beginning. This often leads to irritation, and then they stop using it altogether.
As Prof. Caitriona Ryan, Consultant Dermatologist, explains:
“Retinoids are one of the most researched ingredients in skincare, and yet they are still one of the most misunderstood. Nearly everyone can tolerate a retinoid if they are using the right one for their skin and using it correctly. The key is to start slowly and build up gradually.”
In our clinic, retinoids form a core part of many treatment plans because they can be used to treat acne, pigmentation and signs of skin ageing, while also improving overall skin texture and quality.
Our Recommended Retinoids
At the Institute of Dermatologists, we recommend retinoids that are effective but also well tolerated, as consistency is the most important factor when using a retinoid.
Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream
A good option for those new to retinoids or those with more sensitive skin. It helps to improve skin texture, tone and fine lines and is generally well tolerated.
Clinical Skin Retinol + AOX Renewal Cream
This retinol combines vitamin A with antioxidants to help improve skin texture and pigmentation while supporting overall skin health.
Clinical Skin Retinol + Peptide Refining Serum
This combines retinol with peptides, which help support collagen production and improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Choosing the right retinoid depends on your skin type, your skin concerns and whether you have used retinoids before.
A Simple Retinoid Routine
When using a retinoid, a simple routine is usually best.
A retinoid routine should include three key products: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and a daily SPF.
Evening:
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Gentle cleanser
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Retinoid
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Moisturiser
Morning:
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Gentle cleanser
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Moisturiser
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SPF
We recommend wearing SPF every day when using a retinoid, as retinoids can make the skin more sensitive to the sun and sun exposure can worsen pigmentation and signs of skin ageing.
At the Institute of Dermatologists, we often recommend zinc-based sunscreens such as EltaMD, as they are generally well tolerated by sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Not Sure Which Retinoid Is Right For You?
Choosing the right retinoid depends on your skin type, your skin concerns and your skin’s tolerance. Using a retinoid that is too strong, or using it too frequently at the beginning, is one of the most common reasons people experience irritation.
If you are unsure which retinoid is right for you, a consultation with one or our nurses or therapists in the Cosmetic Suite allows us to assess your skin and recommend the most suitable retinoid and routine for your skin.
During a consultation, we can advise on:
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Which retinoid is suitable for your skin
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How often to use it
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How to reduce irritation
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Which moisturiser and SPF to use
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How to build a long-term skincare routine
